Delicate French Australian Cuisine - Bistro Ortholan @ Leichardt

Impressive in appearances and certainly a pampering experience. However, overall, the prices are steep. The name "bistro" is also a misnomer as this clearly translated to mean fine dining with the exception of a relaxed ambience the place exuded.



A surprising start. This was like drinking a piece of artwork. The complimentary cool appetizer was a colourful float of tomato slices in a concoction of oil and sensuous stock. A good opening statement.

There are a few interesting and enticing entrees such as the sea urchin and oysters but there is only so much one could try at one sitting. Next time, if we ever decide to patronise again.



Tortellini of Queensland mudcrab with fig and greens, silken tofu and roasted crab consommé absolutely true to its contemporary label as this was more fusion than French. Crunchy and light.

The tartlet of Victorian smoked eel and samphire with a petite salad niçoise and softly cooked quails egg was both visually appealing and delicious especially for egg lovers. Well balanced by vegetables, there is no hint of coyness.

Rillette of Macleay Valley White rabbit with duck liver and Armagnac parfait, and freshly toasted brioche. This is a pretty sight especially with the garland of nasturtium leaves and flowers and gelatine on the plate. It leaves a clean and contented after taste.

The mains are fairly substantial by most French cuisine standards.

Twice-cooked sirloin and tenderloin of Wildes Meadow bio-dynamic, milk-fed veal with Soubise purée, glazed salsify and bone-marrow dauphinoise. Tastes flavoursome but tends to get a bit boring after the first two slices.

Crisp-skinned fillet of Cone Bay saltwater barramundi, with squid and corn ‘risotto’ and South Australian samphire. Too good for words - all I can say is that the squid tastes extraordinary. The serving of barramundi could have been slightly more.

Crépinette of Pink Snapper with seared Hervey Bay scallops, foie gras butter and baby greens. The snapper and scallops are undoubtedly fresh and tasty. The inclusion of foi gras sauce and animal fat was a bit out of place even for bold and unconventional standards.

The dessert list looks good but time was running short. With friendly but clear signals that diners must vacate at a certain appointed time while the kitchen was rushing and could not really keep up with the mains and other tables waiting, the sweet endings had to be given a miss.

The eight course degustation menu that costs $120 supposedly takes four hours to finish. It may sound like a "better value" option but only possible if the restaurant is not fully booked back to back during the festive season.

It's is difficult to find fault with the food, wine and service but there is a sense that they are overrated by reviewers.

Other Reviews :

http://yourrestaurants.com.au/guide/bistro_ortolan/

http://sydney.citysearch.com.au/restaurants/1137427326874/Bistro+Ortolan